Young at Heart

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had an awesome day with Asayama-san! i can’t believe he’s 66 years old and super stoked on surfing! today the waves were super perfect so he caught some really good ones. also caught the longest waves of his surfing life! he kept on paddling back out saying “this is my dream!”
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then we went to Your Kitchen to eat a loco moco and the pork bowl. the best on the island.
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it’s been 40 years since Asayama-san last came to hawaii. so many things have changed since, including this tree growing and growing.
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huge!
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after a good surf, good lunch, and good talk, we took a nap under the tree. so peaceful and so relaxing.
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then we had dessert at Waiola Shave Ice. it’s so funny how i had 14 year old Masamune-kun just a few days ago, and now i had 66 year old Asayama-san today. two people from totally different generations, but amazing how surfing and shave ice could make them smile exactly the same way. you should have seen the face of Asayama-san when he got down to the azuki and ice cream on the bottom. haha.
tomorrow we shall surf again. tomorrow we shall eat again. and tomorrow we shall laugh again. see you in the morning Asayama-san!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide