two days ago, the waves were super perfect. no wind so very glassy conditions. very rare for the summer swells. but hey, we’ll take it!
i learned a lot from talking to Asayama-san. he told me that age is only a number. it’s not the number, it’s they way you live your life. ever since he started surfing at the tender age of 59, his life has become a better place. better body, better mind, and better soul.
to all the 1st time surfers in hawaii: if you know where to go, what wave to ride, and how to ride it, i guarantee you will ride the longest wave of your life! over a hundred japanese surfers have told me “OMG! this is the longest wave i rode in my life!” and you know what? it’s the best feeling in the world! just ask Asayama-san.
towards the end of our session, the waves kept on getting bigger and bigger. some huge 8′ faces breaking right in front of us. and when you make it over one, it felt like you’re going over a mountain. a big mountain!
this day was by far the biggest waves challenged by Asayama-san. i kept right along the side of him the whole time. and when i seen the big wave coming right to us, i yelled “paddle!!!!” he took off on a perfect one, stood up, and rode it all the way in. after this, he said “let’s go in, i want to remember my last wave in hawaii like this. i’m so happy!”
awesome job Asayama-san. you are a very healthy and happy surfer. watching you surf makes me want to surf for the rest of my life! i want to be stoked like you! take care and keep on surfing.
and thank you very much for the Yoku Moku snacks! i love it!
