HNL to CHIGASAKI

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was happy to get a flight out of hawaii. right when i boarded the airplane, Kimura-san texted me “waves are head high and perfect!” omg, i was thinking about getting off the plane to narita and jumping on the flight to kansai. but i knew that would be way too selfish of me? haha. then i arrive at narita and get a text from Toda-san telling me the waves are good in shizuoka. now i’m so confused! haha.
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activated my rail pass and was ready for anything.
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but first, i had a dinner in chigasaki. was pretty cold!
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and i was so thirsty i got off a stop to grab a tea. but i couldn’t tell which one was mugicha??? i didn’t want to put any caffeine in my body. so ended up passing on tea.
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had an awesome dinner with my friends. thanks to you all for the wonderful night! Eri-chan, Kanae-san, Saito-san, Akko-chan, Naoka, Yuki-chan, Matsu, and Matsuo. you guys are like my family! thank you for all the years of putting up with my changing of the plans, and selfishness. i love you guys.
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super good new restaurant in chigasaki. loved it.
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and of course, all i want to eat is japanese food. that’s what i came here for! after dinner we were planning to drive to shizuoka. but instead, thought it would be better to get a few hours of sleep first.
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we make the plan to pick up Eri-chan at 4:30am. of course she was still sleeping and didn’t answer her phone. during that time, we find out from Toda-san that shizuoka is small and onshore. so we drive right in front and see something very wonderful.
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perfect waves in chigasaki! omg, we park the car, paddle out early, and have the dream session. head high and barreling. i surfed this local spot for the past 23 years and today was absolutely the best of the best. we were back in by 8am and all totally stoked on surfing, and totally stoked on life!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide