ok, here is the rest of the story about yesterday’s session. i know Tou-san is a very energetic surfer because i surfed with her before and she kept on going and going strong. so when we pulled up to the beach and seen the big waves, i was confident that she would be fine. it was so big that there were only a couple of surfers out on a saturday morning. normally, it would be packed!
from the first wave, Tou-san surfed great! great concentration, great control, great balance, and great rides. and actually, riding the wave was the easy part. the hard part was getting back out.
Tou-san must have dove under a hundred waves or more. some huge ones too but just kept on progressing forward. i kept on telling her “swim, swim, swim!” my surfer girl friend paddled up to me and said “kirby, you’re so mean to her!” i told her, “this girl is strong! i know she can do it! so we’re going to do it!” then she paddled away and said “you’re mean!” haha. then i started to feel bad so i asked Tou-san, “are you ok?” she looked at me and said “yes i’m ok, i want more!”
when i picked up Tou-san from her hotel, i asked her what the biggest wave she’s gone out in. she told me “about head high.” i told her, “well, today is your lucky day. it’s way over head high so get ready to ride the biggest wave of your life!” look good at this photo and you can see how big this wave is. see that little guy peaking over the mountain? Tou-san told me that none of her surfer friends in japan would believe her. well, photos don’t lie. this wave was solid 5′ hawaiian scale and Tou-san was smiling off the takeoff. wanted to say hi to my chigasaki firefighter friends. and also want to say that your coworker is a very brave girl. welcome to the world a new big waver!
