good morning. high surf advisory for the south shores of hawaii. the waves were good yesterday but look even better today. just seen a solid 4′ set and the conditions look pretty dam good. yesterday i timed big rights perfect. as i was paddling out, all the boys were coming in. that was 12pm lunch time. today is sunday so i have to time it even better because i don’t want to surf with 100 guys out there. ummm, anyway, have a nice day and see you in the water….
i went to go chucky cheeses and ordered the all you can eat salad “one trip” plate. so i made “one trip” and ate all i could eat… at $6, i swear that salad bar is the best…
i always tell my friends that if they let me borrow their board, don’t expect it back if it works good. last week, mike woo dropped off his board to let me try and i tried it. and now he ain’t getting it back… i already cleaned it up and put my stickers on it… haha…
throughout my surfing life, i always rode squash tails on my short boards. i never had a round pin that worked like magic until this one. round pin with glass on fins… that’s the way to go. i can hit the lip and if the tail pops out, it catches so i can recover. i’ve been feeling like kelly slater these past days. haha.. this 6’0 board was designed for good waves and the waves have been better than good. so it’s all good. good day, go play…. and no, i’m not drunk….
and last, this is the kind of stuff that happens in countries around the world. but japan? no. this was the headlines this morning. “7 reported dead in Tokyo stabbing rampage,10 more wounded; alleged attacker says he was ‘tired of life'”
it happened in akihabara “electric town”. a 25 year old japanese man rammed his car into a crowd of shoppers, got out, and started stabbing them. i guess no where’s safe anymore. if your at the wrong place at the wrong time, your screwed….. that part of life sucks….
