super stoked to wake up this morning to a text from Naohiro. Josh Moniz in wakayama with our family! on the way back from scoring giant waves in okinawa. stay tuned for the Surfer Magazine article coming soon!
and now this kid doesn’t have to listen to my stories over and over. he can experience wakayama first hand. Marutaya Ramen the best and just by Joshua’s face, i can tell he feels the same way. thank you to our loving Yamari Family for taking care of our loving family. we all really appreciate it!
woke up to a brand new south swell this morning! perfect waves, perfect winds, and perfect day! the whole island is so happy that the trade winds are back. i actually had to use a blanket last night. been over 2 months!
i had a super good time all day long with Kaneko-san and Makoto-san. surfing, eating, smiling, and laughing. such a cool couple!
the waves were way overhead today! rode lots and lots of waves. here is Kaneko-san with a big overhead one!
then it was off to lunch. some korean style black bean seafood noodle. the best on the island.
then we went to pick up the boys for the afternoon session. such an amazing surfer group from chiba. more waves, more smiles, and more laughs.
i got a very lucky barrel today on my 10′ longboard. never knew i could pull in with it!
and we lucked out and seen the most amazing rainbow. it hung around for about 30 minutes so 30 minutes of beautiful hawaii. haven’t seen this in a while!
and we lucked out and seen the amazing sunset on the drive home! haven’t seen this in a while!
south swell continues tomorrow. cool trade winds continue all week. perfect waves, perfect weather, and perfect summer. can’t wait for tomorrow. good night.
