A Lonely Night at Sea

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had a few drinks with my friend Carter last night. seems like we had lots to talk about so next thing you know, it was almost 2am. he went home, and i went to my ocean home. had no news about the incoming tsunami but didn’t even want a small tidal change to make a mess at the marina.
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i get there and nobody is around. i seen a few boats out of the slip so they must have went out to sea too. i grab some water, my surfboard, and a blanket and i’m off to sea.
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it was so calm! just taking my time getting out because i know there are big trees and all kinds of rubbish in the marina from the recent heavy rain. and also the beers i drank was impairing my vision a little. haha. i get out outside of ala moana, throw the anchor in 50′ deep water, put on some music, and fall asleep watching the honolulu city lights and millions of bright stars. i felt like i was in heaven.
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i knew i was totally safe even if a big tsunami came so i slept pretty good. woke up to the calm ocean and beautiful sunrise to come.
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i sit for a while drinking my water watching the most amazing sunrise right in front of me. gosh, i could do this everyday!
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seen some shoulder high perfect waves with only 2 of the boys out at bowls. so grab my board, paddle out, and catch a few. i felt so relaxed and at peace. heard from the boys that there was no tsunami. great news!
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then i make my way back in looking at the deep blue sky. pulled back to the yacht club and seen some weird tidal surges. actually had a had time putting the boat back in the slip. a few guys asked where i was. i told them i was outside in the ocean waiting for the tsunami. they looked at me like i was crazy. haha. but last night was one of the most beautiful and peaceful nights i had in a very long time.
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then came home and ate a fresh bowl of Yamari Shirasu Joshua brought back from wakayama.
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tasted so good! i actually felt like a real fisherman today. it was my first time doing this and if it happens again, i’ll do the exact same thing. oh, only next time i will take my kombucha to drink for my morning sunrise.
waikiki
ok, the state of hawaii made a miscalculation mistake on the last sewage spill. they underestimated 200,000 gallons of the raw sewage spill at ala moana and waikiki. so the total was 700,000 gallons. yuck!
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was at Kyle’s house the other day watching the footage from our amasan dive in shikoku. i couldn’t believe the awesome footage he got. it’s going to be a pretty amazing show of the deepest culture in japan. stay tuned.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide