Hawaii's Best Pork and Dentist

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i woke up again today and the waves were bigger than yesterday? and more big south swells coming this week? omg, what’s going on??? september is usually the worst month for waves in hawaii as it transitions from summer to winter. it’s normally flat. i usually travel to japan or indonesia chasing swells but this year, i don’t want to go anywhere. it sounds crazy to pay a lot of money to chase waves when the waves are excellent right in your back yard. save money and surf good waves? unheard of.
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i was craving roast pork yesterday so i went to my favorite local roast pork shop.
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then i grabbed some poke too and had the best local lunch on the island.
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after that amazing lunch, i spent 3 hours at my dentist. by tooth was hurting for a while when i ate cold things like ice cream and smoothies. so i got that fixed and also got my teeth fully cleaned. once again i got scolded from my dentist for not flossing everyday. haha.
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my dentist is Dr. Clarence Lee. he’s my best friend Carter’s older brother so we’ve known each other since kids. freaks me out how they look so alike. i’ve gone to many of dentists on this island, but nobody compares to Dr. Lee. very gentle, very professional, and very kind. i just take my seat, fall asleep, and when i get up, everything is perfectly done.
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it’s so weird seeing your own teeth on the X-ray. looks like some kind of alien??? anyway, thank you Dr. Lee for always taking care of myself, my family, and my friends.
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i still won’t forget the time i was down in waikiki a few years ago. it was a super sunny beautiful day. then it started raining. a tourist got on his phone and called his girlfriend. he said “hey babe, oh my gosh!! it’s the most beautiful blue sunny sky and it’s freaking raining here in hawaii!!! i can’t believe it!!!” he hung up and then the hugest rainbow formed right in front of his eyes. you should have seen his facial expression. it was like he saw a ghost. haha. i was laughing inside and always laugh at that time when it rains here with the sky so blue. so yesterday i got out of the water, felt the rain, and wondered where it was coming from? this only happens in hawaii.
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here is the proof. raining with blue sky. amazing!
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had the most wonderful day today with Kimura-san and Anna-san. we surfed 2 rounds for so long and caught so many waves. it was kind of big so very challenging. both surfed super good. one more session tomorrow was they must be sleeping so well tonight. i’m sure i will be too. goodnight as i’ll be sleeping by 8:30pm.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide