sitting on the beach with Ito-san yesterday early morning. getting nervous as the sets were huge! it’s a far paddle out so lots of time to get nervous. haha. it reminds me of my own personal experiences paddling out to huge sunset and pipeline 30 years ago. thank you Hikaru for the photo.
the morning conditions were perfect! super glassy long walls. get barreled, or do an off the lip. your choice.
Ito-san on a nice one. once the nerves settled, he managed to get a few good waves. i really like this photo. shows the commitment.
even the rights were fun. you just have to know which one to go on. if you do, you will get the thrill of your life! great job Ito-san!
look how glassy it was. it’s like your surfboard being a pen and drawing long lines on a canvas. art in pure form.
then i went home and took care of my garden. can’t believe how big my gardenia plant and two avocado trees got with all this wonderful rain and sun. every time i come home, i pass here, stop, and look at my plants. watching them grow makes me so happy.
