i’ve been surfing with Ikuko-san for a couple of years. when ever she comes, the waves are usually knee high. yesterday, it was pretty big. i knew she was nervous, but it’s my job to calm people down. one way is to yell “relax!!! breath!!!” haha. how can you relax and breath going over a mountain like this?
once we got out, the only way in is to ride a wave. it was Ikuko-san’s first big wave experience. so stoked for her!
and paddling out was challenging. challenging but beautiful. look at this awesome rainbow!
another wave, another day, and another memory. nice photo!
i also taught Ikuko-san how to throw the board and dive under the wave. she did a great job! she went from knee high surfer to overhead surfer in one day. see you again on wednesday!
i caught a wave and had a blast! took off and tried to grab rail to get into the barrel.
then did a cutback to the right.
then put my toes on the nose.
then kicked out and tried to get barreled on the next wave. i think i’m having too much fun out there.
this is the very reason i don’t like to teach people how to turtle dive. i teach people to go over the wave or dive under. if you turtle dive in too shallow water, you can hit your head on the reef and knockout. i took this photo just to demonstrate how dangerous it is. and when i seen this photo, i couldn’t believe how close my head was to the reef!!! i could have knocked out myself. haha.
