Hawaiian Style: Surf and Nature…..

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good evening. gosh, what a wonderful day. surfed big rights this morning. smaller and less waves than yesterday. but you know what? i had fun. got a few good waves which was enough for me. on the way home, i was looking at the mountains and the weather was just perfect to go exploring. so exploring it was. i headed to this secret mountain and i was pretty excited because i haven’t been up there in 10 years or so. they blocked it off so nobody can hike up there, but i knew how to get around…

this is the sign that’s blocking the trail. look close and see the bullet holes? yeah, the guy living up there shoots people that trespass. and if he misses, he sends his 3 pit bulls on your ass. you have to knock on his gate 3 times, whistle once, leave a case of heineken’s, and one more thing for him to let you in. and that thing, i ain’t telling you. but once you get in, your in a place where no one else goes. jungle baby….

so here i am with my camera shooting away. the trail is hardly used so it’s easy to get lost up there. and easy to fall off the side of the mountain. i fell 8 times, once almost off the mountain. yeah, if it wasn’t for the tree that i hit on the way down, i would have been history. it was scary, but at the same time, funny as shit….

the view is spectacular. green, green, and green. enough green to make you think green… 10 years ago, i remembered this hike being 20 minutes. so 20 minutes went by, then another 20 minutes, then another. i was almost ready to turn around 2 times but i knew what was at the end so i just kept on going…. tired, sweaty, thirsty, but kept going….

and this is why…. this secret mountain has 7 waterfalls and this one is my favorite. it’s about 50′ high with a pool on the bottom. and the best thing about it? not a single soul around….

people think i’m a townie because i live in town. little do they know, nature is just a walk away for me. does this look like town to you??? i don’t think so…

this is one for the album…. today was such an awesome day. some surf, and some nature. what more can you ask for? nothing…
**by the way, the 20min hike i remembered ended up being 2 and a half hours. one way!! i’m freakin tired.. the birds chirping and the sounds of the trees blowing in the wind. that’s the only thing in my mind right now. goodnight…
**by by the way, the waves looked good this evening. tomorrow morning, dawn patrol. i might have to bust the boat out….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide