good morning, 6:15am. the waves didn’t come up that much. 15 guys out at bowls with 4 guys sitting at the big bowl. looks headhigh, or the same size as yesterday. the park is packed. i see 70 guys scattered around like ants. probably no parking but i’m going down anyway. i just need one barrel to make my day. so once i get one, i’m out of there…. have a great father’s day….
**found this on youtube. bodyboarder vs. surfer. i thought this was a joke but i was real. freakin classic… surfers, longboarder, bodyboarders, and stand-up paddlers. can’t we all get along? it’s all about respect. if we respect one another, we can get along and share waves. just because you have a bigger board, that doesn’t mean you can paddle out and catch every wave from the outside. if that’s the case, i’m going to take my boat out to big rights and start doing off the lips on it. that wouldn’t be cool right? we had a talk about that topic yesterday at big rights and i still feel the same as most local surfers. i don’t give a shit who you are, if you show respect to everybody, your cool. if you want to be an ass and try to catch every wave, go home. there shouldn’t be any fights in the ocean or on the beach, i go there to relax. not to see shit like this. if you want to fight, go lock yourself in your car and start punching yourself in the face. now that’s pretty cool…
