good evening. went down to check the waves this morning. wasn’t as big as everybody was anticipating but good enough for me. overhead, sunny sky, warm water. what else can you ask for?
passed up big rights and went to meet up with photographer kondo-san for a morning photo session. had a good time surfing with shuji kasuya and nick mita. it was a beautiful day and the photos will probably be beautiful too. kondo-san’s photos are always beautiful….
they held the point panic bodysurfing championships yesterday and today. the waves? epic…. i was telling nick that we use to surf out there back in the days. in fact, we use to surf out there all the time. yeah, if you paddle out there with tony moniz, it’s cool. but if you paddle out there by yourself, you better run before a big hawaiian bodysurfer grabs your leash, head buts you, breaks off your fins, then sends you in. then once you get in, the police will arrest you and take your surfboard away. so i wouldn’t try it if i were you. or if you do, let me know so i can watch… haha… but really, i seen it all before and it ain’t pretty….
i got home from surfing around 10am. it was still a beautiful day so when my friend called me to go banana boat riding, i couldn’t resist. hook up my boat, launch from ala wai, check the surf on the way out, and have a blast in the ocean…
i passed by bowls, big rights, kewalo’s, and point panic twice. the waves didn’t look half as good as the morning. maybe that’s why there were only half the crowd as this morning. or is everybody surfed out? i don’t think so. not in hawaii…. anyway, this is big rights from the back….
**checked the waves this evening and looked like it came down a lot from this morning. seen head high sets at bowls with epic conditions right before dark…. tomorrow? don’t know. south shore is too hard to predict. you just have to check back in the morning… good night…
