good morning. 6:30am monday morning. still got some waves in town. see 20 guys out at bowls waiting for something. didn’t see a set yet but it’s probably head high. looking at lani’s now and there’s some small waves out there. got a couple guys out ripping up the waist high clean surf. light winds and pretty nice everywhere. still waiting for a set to roll in at bowls. there’s hardly any white water so i think it came down a lot. oh wait, just seen a 3′ set. that’s good enough for me. it’s the start of the work week so i better go to work. see you in the water….
did you watch the contest online? i did. and what i saw was some amazing surfing. the hawaiians were on fire and nobody could stop them. 1st place went to kekoa bacalso, 2nd to dustin barca, and 3rd went to joel centeio. in fact 5 out of the 8 quarter finalists were hawaiians so i watched every heat from then on….
kekoa was like the dark horse. not too many people know who he is and not too many people know he can surf. but this kid surfed better than anybody else in the whole event. he was on fire and taking down big names on the way to the final. then he peaked in the final and won the 6 star event. big contest? oh yeah…. i hope kekoa makes the WCT next year because there will be a lot of people saying “where the heck did this kid come from?” he’s that good. congrats kekoa….
and last, these two kids could win a big contest in the future too. surf contest of dive contest. check out the abalone and tako hand picked in japan. gosh, i wish i was there… shun, bring your mask and fins when you come to hawaii because we’re going diving. i’m taking you and seth 30′ underwater and you kids will feel so comfortable down there that you can jun ken po…. see ya soon….
