good evening. gosh, i thought the waves were coming down but i was wrong. pulled up to kewalo’s at lunch and the waves were going off. had some solid 5′ sets with only a few guys out. the right’s were firing and so where the medium size lefts. it’s the biggest waves i’ve surfed in a while. and the cool thing about it is that no groms around. everybody’s in california for the nationals so no hungry rats in the inside. tomorrow? same thing, go naminori….
**how’s this. i got an email to my youtube account notifying me that somebody has subscribed to my videos. so i checked who it was. the guys name is ken tanaka who lives in japan. ken makes some pretty awesome videos. it’s a funny way to remember japanese and i’ll try to use it next time i go to japan… check out this classic japanese lesson….
**i’m looking at the waves now. it’s 6:15pm and the winds died down and the whole south shore looks epic. still got another hour of light so get you ass out there….
