good morning. 6am on this beautiful tuesday morning. there’s swell all around the island. see some epic chest high waves at lani’s. got 3 guys on it already. town is looking pretty dam good too. leftover head high sets with epic conditions. the winds should be coming on shore by 10am so get on it early. i’m out of here… have a nice day….
i hardly eat at mcdonalds. but when i do, it’s mostly for breakfast. check out this local plate with spam, sausage, egg, and rice. $4.68 ain’t that bad. i ate that yesterday morning on the way to surf. but after i ate this plate, i went back home to sleep….
and check out this maguro kama my friend gave me. oh my gosh, it was so good…. and to think, the people in hawaii throw this part away… mottainai…
**and last, i surfed kewalo’s yesterday around 12pm and was supposed to meet my friend carter out. i paddled out and the waves were going off. and there were only 4 other guys out. carter never showed up. after i came in, got a message on my phone. “hey kirby, i pulled up to kewalo’s and when i was getting my board ready, then these 2 guys came in and said that there was a huge shark out there so i decided not to surf. call me when you get in”. wow?? carter knows i’m not scared of sharks but gosh, i’d like to know when i’m surfing with one… haha…
