yesterday had a blast with Nakayama-san. super happy guy that’s been a surfer for 19 years.
when i picked him up, i told him “hey, the waves are big today.” he was stoked to have his first hawaiian reef session.
i’d say had some solid 10′ faces on the waves. some huge ones we had to go under. some made it perfectly, some not. this one was perfect! hard to find big waves at bowls with the water this clean.
look how big this wave at bowls was! haha! imagine surfing beach breaks in japan for 19 years and all of a sudden surf the best wave on the south shore of oahu. this is way overhead and about to barrel!
then took out Kim in the afternoon. Kim has been surfing a few times here in hawaii. but on this day, she caught the best wave of her life! i could see how stoked she was when paddling back out.
Chris got a few good ones too.
this past month, i’ve heard over and over “omg, that was the best wave of my life!!!” that makes me so happy. but what makes me more happy is to see the smiles on everyones faces. it’s a feeling only a surfer can experience. i still have that feeling in me. i still feel that way. and i’m still searching for the ultimate wave. can’t wait!
