i left my house at dark this morning with the truck full with 8 boards ranging from 6’0 to 11’0. and just got home now at 7pm. one of the longest, yet most fun day of my life. it just amazes me how surfing and the ocean can bring out the golden smiles in everyone. i just love it!
Seigo-san and i had a great morning session. was so stoked to see him catching so many good waves again! surfing super good and super happy! then he requested loco moco for lunch so i went to this cool place where i know the chef, walked in the kitchen, and asked “hey chef, can you make us 2 loco moco’s?” he said “of course!”
and like always, this is the best homemade loco moco on the whole island! omg, i want to eat another one right now!
then went surfing in the afternoon with a wonderful group of 8. then for a snorkel and a drinks on the ocean. listened to “shimanchu nu takara” on the way in singing our happy hearts out as the sun set. a very happy day filled with surf and friends. can’t wait to do the same thing tomorrow!
i have 2 cameras full with photos but don’t have any energy to work on it now. will try again tomorrow. stay tuned.
