was playing around with the turtle yesterday. he just kept on swimming under me while i was waiting for a wave.
Kitahama-san caught wave after wave after wave. so many perfect waves all day long. he also went from going straight to turning right or left. a couple of levels up for sure!
he even did some cross steps! give him a few more sessions and he’ll be walking up to the nose. awesome!
longboard or short board, i love it all!
couldn’t believe how empty it was today. at one point, there were only the 2 of us in the whole lineup at rock piles. where is everyone??? thank you Kitahama-san for our awesome uncrowded surf sessions today!
another one bites the dust. a guy from hong kong tries to smuggle drugs into indonesia and gets caught. now he will die sitting in front of the firing squad. i don’t understand why anyone would smuggle drugs into a country that gives drug smugglers the death penalty.
a wrong choice in life can cause your own death. hey people, there is a death penalty for smuggling drugs to indonesia. and the courts over there don’t give a shit what country you’re from or how good our lawyer is. so don’t do it!
