Warning: East Side Shorebreak!

181

Screen Shot 2015-11-17 at 12.53.27 PM
had an awesome time this morning with Watanabe-san. super cool surfer/photographer from hokkaido. he’s here to shoot, surf, and shoot. so that’s what we did!
IMG_2318
Watanabe-san wanted to shoot barrels so that was easy to decide on where to go. sandy beach shore break! as i pulled up, i couldn’t believe you could just pull up front row and get a view like this. only in hawaii.
IMG_2324
it was his first time shooting in shore break so i kept on telling him, “be very careful. this beach is the most dangerous beach in the world for a reason.” as i watched him set up his equipment, it reminded me of myself just a few years ago.
IMG_2327
top of the line equipment for top of the line money.
IMG_2330
there was a high surf advisory for the east shores of oahu. the waves didn’t look that big from the beach but when the sets came, it was huge! this is a cool photo!
IMG_2340
i kept my eye on Watanabe-san the whole time. people die here each year and you have to watch out for one another. surely a great experience for a young aspiring photographer.
IMG_2347
then we went around the corner to check out one of my favorite views in the world. it couldn’t have been a better day.
IMG_2350
imagine coming from hokkaido to hawaii for the first time and seeing this? amazing!
IMG_2349
had such a great time with Watanabe-san today. i’m sure he took some amazing photos on top of his amazing rides this morning.
IMG_2354
then it was shave ice, surf check, and whale check. yeah, seen 3 whales out by the red buoy at diamond head.
IMG_2352
today was one of the most beautiful days ever! perfect weather with cool trade winds.
IMG_2356
then i got home this evening and ate a Marutaya Ramen. the perfect end to a perfect day! going sleep before 9 because Watanabe-san and i are going to dawn patrol somewhere. can’t wait!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide