Avocado, Tangerines, and Snow Puffs

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another very beautiful day in hawaii. maybe even the most beautiful day of the month. early drive to the north shore and it felt so great to be in the amazing nature. honolulu will keep on changing, but the north shore won’t. thank goodness for that.
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driving down this hill thousand of times and still love each and every ride.
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Watanabe-san doesn’t know too much about surfing history and culture. in fact, the only professional surfer he knows is Kelly Slater. i introduced him to former World Champion Sunny Garcia today and he didn’t know who he was. i even introduced him to the Moniz family today and he didn’t have a clue who any of them were. millions of people around the world would have been so excited to sit on the same table as Kelia Moniz, but Watanabe-san hasn’t seen her in his life. haha. on the way back to town, i told him to google all the surfers names he met today. i’m sure he will be surprised.
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look how beautiful pipeline is when she’s sleeping. Watanabe-san had the whole surf spot to himself. it would be a japanese surfers dream. but Watanabe-san didn’t even know what pipeline was? haha!
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then on the way back, i took him to my routine lunch and snack stop. first it was fried chicken.
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then it was snow puffs.
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we ate local hawaiian style. us eating chicken while playing with the chickens. haha.
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while we were eating lunch, i heard a guy yell “kirby!” i look and see my surfer friend calling me from the bushes. he said “wait, don’t go yet!”
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five minutes later, he came over and gave me a big bag of fresh avocados and tangerines. so cool to have so many nice surfer friends.
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a few more days until these guys are ripe and i can’t wait!
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then we stopped by the famous japanese tree to get a photo. another awesome day with Watanabe-san. such a cool guy.
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blocked a few days off next week for a dive trip. really wanted to go to okinawa but this new typhoon might ruin things for us. this is the first time in 25 years where i wish the typhoon would disappear.
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but if can’t dive in japan, i’ll just have to go the opposite side. won’t know till the day before my flight to somewhere takes off. it’s called going with the flow and this is the only way i know how to travel these days. it’s like riding a big wave and letting it take you where ever it wants to. all you can do is sit back and enjoy the ride!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide