omg!!! i surfed for 5 hours today and the waves were so good! good in the morning and epic in the afternoon. new south swell? i think so!
had a great time with Inada-san today. a black belt karate teacher that can kick a surfboard in half. i watched a video him kicking 2 baseball bats in half. omg! the kind of surfer you shouldn’t mess around with.
we took a spin up to tantalus. gosh, it’s so beautiful up there!
then checked out the famous japanese tree. everyone in japan knows this tree, but nobody in hawaii does.
then some sweets after our hot pho.
i must have taken a thousand people here, and not even one of them didn’t like it. it’s that good! thank you Inada-san for a wonderful day of surfing and laughing!
i flooded my go pro today. oh well. shit happens right?
then drove out this evening to hawaii kai to watch an amazing golden sunset. it was so beautiful!
these 2 australian surfers went to mexico for a surf trip. they were driving around taking photos and uploading them to their Facebook page. then all of a sudden, the updates stopped. the 2 surfers went missing somewhere in mexico.
then this van was just found with 2 burnt bodies inside. omg! this is the same mexico i went to twice this month. scary thought.
