Wave Knowledge: Surfing Hawaii

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it’s still so crazy how i can love hawaii more and more each time i leave hawaii. i was so happy to be back home in the ocean today watching the beautiful rainbows.
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Aoi on the nice bottom turn. so happy to see this kid setting up and using his rail like this.
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kewalo’s is one of the hardest spots to surf. the wave looks so perfect from the beach, but when you get in the water, it’s hard to find the good ones. it takes years and years, but the best way is to practice. it’s only Aoi’s 2nd time at kewalo’s and he’s figuring it out little by little. and once you can master this wave, you can surf anywhere in the world. just ask guys like Seth, Joshua, Keanu Asing, Ezekiel Lau, Carissa Moore, and many more top professionals in the world.
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shoulder high and total perfection! i love hawaii!
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and of course i had to get a few for myself. i just love the feeling of riding on the ocean.
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the crab walk. this is where a lot of people get hurt. but hey, if you don’t go, you won’t know.
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i just love to teach kids about the ocean. there are so many variables that takes years to learn. just a little here and there will make this kid a better surfer.
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great surfing Aoi! and thank you Chifumisan for the photos. keep on chasing your dreams!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide