Mushroom Traffic Surf

274

Screen Shot 2015-12-06 at 12.46.30 PM
it was another awesome day today. surfed with Kamikawai-san in the morning and afternoon. two perfect sessions with perfect waves. i just love riding behind people and watching the sprays coming off the rail. beautiful surfing!
Screen Shot 2015-12-06 at 12.47.46 PM
Kamikawai-san doesn’t really like to go left. but because bowls is a perfect left, i told him “better go left!!!”
Screen Shot 2015-12-06 at 12.47.16 PM
and was super stoked watching him do nice cutbacks! our goal today was to do nice round cutbacks and that goal was accomplished many of times! awesome surfing dude!
Screen Shot 2015-12-06 at 12.48.40 PM
we had a great time surfing for long 2 rounds. just getting better and better.
IMG_3035
and ate a nice mushroom chicken plate for lunch. oishi!
IMG_3044
then i went to show Kamikawai-san one of my secret secluded beaches. it was so beautiful!
IMG_3045
then checked diamond head out. looked fun, but ala moana side was much better.
IMG_3047
i knew there was going to be major traffic in waikiki because of the parade tonight. but it was worst than expected. when you see passengers getting off the bus and start walking, it’s pretty bad. Kamikawai-san took the faster way home by getting out and walking too. good choice because i was stuck for a very long time
IMG_3046
look at all the traffic in waikiki!!! omg, i was stuck! but no stress for me because i can’t be complaining after this wonderful day of surfing.
by the way, the waves on the north shore went from waist high this morning to 20′ faces by the evening. JAWS contest tomorrow ON in maui. don’t miss it on WORLDSURFINGLEAGUE.COM

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide