omg, last night was amazing! my best friends getting together at a super cool bar down my street. good beer, good food, and excellent tequila. i’m glad i stopped at two shots. haha.
i couldn’t believe how good the waves were this morning. i checked diamond head and knew a secret spot that would be going off. so i drove there and scored epic overhead surf, off shore, barreling, and nobody out! score!
homeless in hawaii is a huge problem these days. i see people putting up tents all over the place. will there be a solution? i really don’t think so.
John, Holli, Candace, Russ, Bobby, and Carter. these guys and girls are my life. without them, i’d be nothing. thank you guys and girls for always supporting me throughout these 35 plus years.
super stoked that Blue Note Hawaii just opened up! i can’t wait to go there to listen to jazz music and sip on good whisky!
last, i’ve been getting so many comments by email about this video. it’s one of my favorite ever. i remember that day very clearly. perfect weather, perfect winds, perfect friends, and perfect time. i wish i can relive this every single day. oh wait! i can! i just have to watch it over and over and it will seem like yesterday. yeah!
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOoDjhfSPj0[/youtube]
