A Last Year End Swell!

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mother nature pushed another solid south swell towards us to end the year off! not just a year, but the best year of my life. yesterday was freaking barreling and the waves were super good all morning long. this is good barreling bowls!
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Dave is a pilot and surfs out there almost everyday. super cool guy on a super cool wave.
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Tommy on a pretty nice wave. no, this is not macaroni’s in the mentawai’s, this is ala moana bowls in honolulu. and it’s december? believe it or not.
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nice sunrise turn Tommy.
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of course i had to get my fair share too. every time i kick out at the end of the wave, i paddle back out thinking “is this real?” and i’ve been asking myself that all year long on the best south shore in the history of surfing. nobody’s complaining!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide