The Final Bloody Countdown!

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wow, did you watch the pipe masters today? it was amazing! huge perfect pipe/backdoor and super exciting. even the top pro’s in the world get hurt out there. thank goodness Bede is still alive. heavy wipeout!
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i started a project yesterday. i built this deck about 15 years ago and it started to rot due to the rain we have here everyday. so before it collapses, i thought i’d better rebuild it. so first thing this morning i get up early and walk out side to continue the job i started yesterday.
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then i step on a piece of wood and i felt a sharp pain! OMG, a super long nail went right through my slipper and foot. i seriously didn’t know what happened until my foot was stuck on the nail.
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it went so deep that i thought the nail was going to come out from the top. i was in such pain that i started punching my house!!!! now my hand is sore too!
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then the blood started to gush out. it wouldn’t stop for a while. but hey, i must continue. it was either go doctor or finish the job. today is this only day i have time so i decided to finish the job. maybe next time i’ll wear shoes and boxing gloves.
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so i was working and crying while i was watching the pipeline masters online.
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Mick Fanning still going into the quarter finals. he was surfing so good and so smart taking out the best of the best at pipeline. so sad to hear that Mick found out this morning that his older brother died in his sleep. he was emotionally charged.
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tomorrow, Mick Fanning faces this guy. Kelly Slater is the best surfer in the history of surfing pipeline. just way too good. but hey, i want Mick to win the world title so i hope he beats Kelly. final day tomorrow morning starting at 8am. it’s going to be very exciting!
in the meanwhile, i can’t even walk on my right foot. it swelled up all day long and it hurts more and more. what a bummer!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide