Love and Hug

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this pipe masters was probably the most exciting and most emotional contest ever. Mick Fanning woke up yesterday morning only to hear the news of his older bother that died in his sleep. Mick also lost another brother years ago to an accident. then after hearing the news yesterday, he had to put on his game face and surf a heat against 11X world champion Kelly Slater. and won.
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Mick had the hardest heats in the contest. he beat Bruce Irons, Jamie O’Brien, John John Florence, and Kelly Slater not once, but twice. all pipeline champions but Mick was determined. every barrel he came out of, you could see his emotions. looking up to the sky and probably telling his brother “this is for you.” Mick fell short and lost in the semi-finals but his efforts in this contest will long be remembered.
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no other contest in the world is more exciting than the pipeline masters. it was crazy!
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Adriano De Souza ended up winning the contest and world title. congratulations to the most competitive and determined surfer from brazil.
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but the story of the year has to be Mick’s. it should be made into a hollywood movie. for this surfer to overcome getting attacked by a shark on live tv, lose his bother, and to pulling off huge heat wins yesterday and today, his courage in the contest touched millions of people around the world.
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when he was getting interviewed, i don’t think there was a dry eye anywhere. even the girl interviewing him choked up, started crying, and couldn’t even do her job anymore. it was very touching words coming out of this world champions mouth.
Mick put up a message on his instagram after hearing about his brothers death. please read it, and act on it.
“Tell the special people in your life you love them and give them a hug.”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide