omg, another beautiful summer kind of feeling day here in hawaii. it was day 3 with my big crew searching the ocean for the best wave possible. i wake up, check the ocean, winds, tide, and feeling. then i know exactly where to go. and like the past 3 days, we surfed the absolutely best wave on the south shore. and if you ask me how would i know? my answer is “because i checked everywhere.” our crew was smiling from ear to ear these past 3 days and that makes me a very happy guy.
to leave early in the morning watching the sun rise is the most beautiful time of the day. this morning was like every other morning this year, incredible. whales, turtles, and total peace.
after our super satisfying 3.5 hour surf session, we came in and went to a friends house and had a “kava” session. we all had 5 full glasses of super strong fiji kava and we all were buzzing. the totally crazy natural high you will ever get. i don’t even remember driving home after this.
the last time i drank this much kava was when i was in fiji 15 year ago. i drank too much and tried to jump off the boat in the middle of the night. it’s a crazy natural high. maybe i better not drink too much anymore. oh, and everybody asks me what kava tastes like. i tell them “mud.” why do i drink it? i don’t know. haha.
then i picked up the girls and went back into the ocean all afternoon till sunset. they surfed, they snorkeled, and they laughed. as i was coming in, i took this photo of the sunset and thought something. “isn’t it crazy how we can see the perfect sunrise and sunset at the exact same spot????” this was the exact same spot i took the sunrise photo this morning. and now i’m taking the sunset photo in the evening? that’s either crazy, or freaking amazing!
another 8 hour day in the ocean and for the next week, it’s looking the same every single day. loving it, but i’m looking forward to my vacation. a vacation i don’t even have time to plan. haha. all i can look forward to is to jump on an airplane flying to where ever it lands. good night.
