Sandy Beach Bodyboard Daze

239

OMG, found another blog i forget to hit the “publish button.” oh well, here it is!
we surfed ala moana bowls in the morning, then sandy beach in the afternoon. two totally different spots, different waves, different wind, different sand, different view, different water, different power, and different locals.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.38.12 PM
i grew up surfing here in high school so it was good to see all my old time friends in the lineup. a much different lineup then ala moana. only locals here. no tourists and no beginners at all.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.37.42 PM
Mana-san sharing the lineup with my local friend. super cool hawaiians at sandy beach. and right out in front had 2 huge whales jumping out of the water the whole time we were out. waiting for sets watching the whales? freaking awesome!
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.38.44 PM
and the waves much thicker than ala moana. swells coming in from the deep water hitting the shallow reef with lots of power. you can ride 2x faster here.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.36.53 PM
i like going right at full point. the wave angles in and you can smash the lip super hard.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.37.14 PM
and the view is freaking amazing!
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.37.28 PM
gosh, i miss short boarding. just love the feeling so much.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.39.09 PM
then there is the notorious sandy beach shore break. since Mana-san is a bodyboader, i told her, “you must experience the most strongest pound for pound wave in the world.” she was nervous watching all the water dumping on the sand.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.39.22 PM
it’s so peaceful out there. made me remember my middle school days of my friends and i doing the same thing.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.39.31 PM
and the water is just pure clean. no chemicals, no brown water runoff, and so smell. some of the cleanest water on the island.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.39.50 PM
Mana-san caught this really good wave. nice take off and getting ready for the barrel.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.40.47 PM
a definitely good experience for a bodyboader from japan. sandy beach is the mecca of bodyboarding.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.40.59 PM
and yes, you will take home a lot of sand with you. in your hair, in your ears, and in your swimsuit. haha.
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.41.23 PM
great job Mana-san on your first sandy beach experience. you couldn’t have chosen a better day. maybe see you in the water in okinawa!
Screen Shot 2016-01-21 at 5.41.41 PM
gosh, i just love it here. i use to take this view for granted when i was young. now, i appreciate the water, sand, clouds, people, and everything about sandy beach.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide