ok, our laniakea surf yesterday was incredible. from the nerves in the passenger seat in my car, to the first wave ever ridden on the north shore for Koike-san. i was so stoked to get this shot! i’m sure this wave will be in his mind and conversations for years to come.
the swell and conditions were pretty dam good! just perfect laniakea.
nice bottom turn Koike-san! all that boot camp training the day before at bowls paid off. you got good in one day and now you will keep on improving. just remember what we talked about.
so stoked to get the turtle shot of him popping his head up right next to us.
when surfing on the north shore, it’s a matter of time you will get caught off guard by a big “obake” set. it’s pretty fun for me because i understand that comes with surfing. it was Koike-san’s first time getting cleaned up by a big set. i was laughing and laughing swimming on the side of him as 4 waves pounded us. he must think i’m crazy. haha.
i told him, “high risk, high return.” i remember the days clearly when i use to panic too. then i would see experienced big wave surfers laughing at me when i came up thinking i was going to die. so getting laughed at helped me a lot. that’s why i’m doing the same thing. haha.
“high risk, high return!” you take chances, you get pounded, you try, and it pays off. Koike-san caught the most perfect wave of the day. i was so stoked yelling behind him “go!!!”
and he kept on going! this wave was like the fast and the furious!
and i got a few good ones myself. just loving every minute of every day.
good job Koike-san. i was super proud of your courage on the north shore. next time you come to hawaii, get ready for bigger and better. high risk right?
seen this school of “kala” swimming under me. these fish are prized on the south pacific islands. people rather eat this than tuna. you have to be very careful spearing these fish because they have knives razor sharp on their tails. if it whacks you, you will need stitches. that’s why another name of this fish is “surgeon fish.” be very careful.
anyway, jumping on a flight to somewhere far. it’s my vacation and i think i deserve it. cheers!
