good evening. gosh, today was hotter than hot. i went to check the waves but it was too dam hot to surf. it felt like 100 degrees outside. the waves looked pretty good but my bed with a/c was calling me. came home, drank a lot of water, turned on the a/c, and dreamt surfing. had an awesome session….
i went to shoot bowls yesterday and seen sandy out. sandy is a pro bodyboarder from japan. she’s been surfing bowls the past month because she is staying right in front. she took off on a medium wave, came towards me, then did this nuts spin. i closed my eyes and pressed my trigger. came home and when i seen this photo, i was super stoked. super stoked because this is probably the best bodyboard photo i’ve ever taken. perfect spin and perfect smile. makes me want to bodyboard…. thanks sandy…. by the way, i sent this photo in to guy hagi and he ran it on the evening news last night. score…
**ok, split fridays dive into 2 parts. one free diving, and one for the dolphins. this is the free diving one first. mike woo and i went out early to the north shore on friday. the water was really dirty and it got super windy making the diving conditions not that great. we were lucky to pick up some fish, enough for dinner. how did we do it? jump in, spear some fish, then get out before the sharks come. yeah, you don’t want to be diving the north shore in dirty water with bloody fish hanging next to you. if you stay in one place too long, the sharks will come. and with all the great white shark sightings, i don’t want to take a chance. i already feel like their watching us…. so we speared some fish, and moved on. then when we had enough fish in the cooler, we went home. half a day of diving was enough. wait to you see the dolphin footage coming soon.. it’s pretty awesome… your going to wish you were there…. enjoy…
