another full day in the ocean. over 6 hours total and feeling so fine! the first day of winter as the cold north winds made the cooler turned down low. the water was warmer than the air. but hey, blue sky and clear water made everything ok!
started this morning surfing with Rikita-san and Toshimi-san. super cool surfers that just love to surf! got the nice fish eye photo from up above.
i was too lazy to paddle in and out so Mayuki gave us a ride out to the lineup.
it’s always a great photo with this amazing view.
throw anchor and surf. way too easy and very very nice.
super stoked Rikita-san got some nice rights.
Tomomi-san on a few good ones too.
gosh, it was such a beautiful day today. i love these north wind days because the air is at its cleanest. you can see miles and miles away. Rikita-san with the amazing view.
Toshimi-san rode so many long waves today. right board for the right day. stoked!
glad i had my 2mm rubber Dove Wetsuit. if i didn’t, there would be no way i could have spent 6 hours in the water today.
Mayuki on auto-pilot as we take the happy ending shot after surfing.
then needed to warm up so it was hot pho. very hot and very good!
i have 3 different places i go to for pho. sometimes here, and sometimes there. depending on the kind of taste and how piping hot i want it. today, it was here.
load it up with fresh vegetables, then ate it very slowly while exchanging surf stories.
thank you Rikita-san and Toshimi-san for the gifts!
just what i needed, new nail clippers!
super bowl was this afternoon so when i drove through waikiki to pick up the sisters for an afternoon surf, it was like a ghost town. only a few women walking on the streets as every single man on the island was glued to the tv watching the super bowl. every single man except me. haha. i’d rather surf and we scored with nobody out all afternoon! sleeping early again. going to surf with the sunrise tomorrow morning. goodnight.
