first, the big news of the Eddie Aikau running on wednesday is true! it’s been 6 long years since it was last held. forecasters say big wednesday, but i checked and i think big wednesday night. the swell supposed to peak at night but hopefully it will be big enough in the morning to hold the recommended 8 hour event. we shall see. expect big hype, lots of traffic, and dangerous rides.
i knew this morning was going to have an amazing sunrise. and also knew that the waves would be perfect. so yesterday i asked Rikita-san and Toshimi-san if they wanted to start early. they said yes and it turned out to be the best decision for us all!
woke up and it was 16 degrees C? omg! that’s so cold!
we went very far out to sea to watch the sunrise. you can’t see it from waikiki because diamond head blocks it. so just have to go out to the ocean and you can see the golden moment.
the best part of the day. it just takes your breath away.
looks like golden fire! after this, we went straight back in and surfed.
the waves were super glassy and empty. Rikita-san told me he likes the view. i like it too!
many long rides into the sunrise. it was absolutely beautiful!
it was also Rikita-san’s first time long boarding. and today was the perfect day for that!
Toshimi-san rode many more waves than yesterday. that’s a lot of waves for this surfer girl.
gos, i love this angle. morning sunrise session is the best feeling!
i feel like i’m gliding on the ocean. just perfect lines and perfect waves. waking up early and experiencing a moment like this is amazing. much better than sleeping. at one point, we had bowls to ourselves. score!
thank you Rikita-san, Toshimi-san, and Mayuki-chan for the wonderful golden morning.
then we went to eat my favorite sandwich at my secret spot. a great way to wrap up an awesome morning. sleeping early tonight because another long surf day tomorrow. good night
