for lucky people like me, this is our office. it might sound crazy, but it’s true. people ask me where my local spot is? i tell them “i surf everywhere.” every day is different and i won’t know where the best spot is until that morning. this day, it was pipeline/backdoor.
i see my good friend and former world champion Sunny Garcia out there. like usual, he scares everybody away. once he paddles out, everybody goes in. why? because he is scary if you don’t know him. we’ve traveled together and have some great memories for the past 25 years. cool guy if you know, not so cool if you don’t know.
ok, this gopro camera came out at $399. then went to $299. now it’s at $199. and it still can’t sell. in fact, gopro stocks went down 89% since november 2014. i’m waiting until this camera goes to $99 and i’ll finally buy one. and i think that’s pretty soon.
in the meanwhile, i’ll keep on using my old camera. it still works pretty good as you can see in this beautiful photo of Chizu-san yesterday. super cool surfer girl from Ishimomaki that loves to surf every single day! nice wave and nice new board Chizu-san!
i had an interview yesterday to get my global entry card. the customs officer looked at me and said “hey, you have some interesting travels. why do you go to countries like el salvador, uruguay, argentina, guatemala, cuba, laos, malaysia, etc? what do you do there?” i told him, “i work very hard every single day in hawaii. most people work 5 days and take 2 days off. i work 24 days straight and take 7 days off. and when i have 7 straight days off, i travel, i explore, and i surf.” he looks at me and says “that makes sense.”
i get approved and now i’m getting in and out of america much easier. while everybody waits in line, i just pull up to this machine, scan my passport, and walk out of the airport. pretty fast and pretty simple. it’s called Global Entry.
i also told him i was hanging out with my gangster friends in cuba. haha.
and i was surfing a spot where nobody wanted to surf in the philippines.
and in april, i will be flying to a secluded island very far way in south/east asia. i will be sleeping right here on this bed.
and right out in front, i’ll be surfing this perfect wave. can’t wait for that!
and have much more planned for the rest of this year. but first, i must work hard in order to play like this. haha.
