good evening. woke up to overcast skies and rain. yeah!!! i was super stoked because i knew that the waves were going off and i could stay out for a long time without getting burned. met up with todd at our little secret spot. it was only us for the first hour, then it got crowded. yeah 3 other guys came out after. haha.. the waves were perfect sheet glass. it was so glassy that you couldn’t even see the wave coming in. and the water was crystal clean. ended up surfing for over 3 hours. and the only reason we came in is because we couldn’t paddle for waves anymore. my arms were like rubber…. caught 60 waves and did like 100 turns. it was the best session i had in a while. and that says a lot because i’ve been having pretty good sessions this summer… the only bummer thing was i got stung on my foot by a box jellyfish. shit it hurt. my foot is still itai… oh well, live rolls on. i hope the next swell coming this week brings clouds too. then i can surf surf and surf….
it was good to see my grandpa and grandma walking around their block this morning at 6am. it was raining so i offered them a ride home but “no thanks”. yeah, my grandma and grandpa are living a healthy life because of these daily walks. i felt bad after for even offering…. my grandma is the strongest grandma out there. she goes to the spa to workout 3x a week, and walks everyday. i remember when i was a kid, she use to put me between her legs and squeeze the heck out of me. she called it the “scissors”…. and those “indian burns” too. super grandma….
i felt like eating healthy so i went to foodland to buy some groceries. it felt so weird being a man pushing a cart around at 10am on a working day. i was the only guy in the whole store with a cart and felt a little embarrassed. all the housewives in there must have been thinking “gosh, doesn’t that guy have a job?” it’s funny because i use to shop in japan every evening for dinner. walk in the store during winter time with slippers and a tshirt. hair still sticking up from my afternoon nap. cannot speak japanese. eating the free samples everywhere in the store. and mingling with the housewives. nah, that last part was a joke. but i can still remember how they use to look at me. the look like “is this guy nuts? why can’t he speak japanese? and doesn’t he know that he’s the only one in the city wearing slippers in the winter?” haha… those were the good old days….
**by the way, i made that sandwich to have a healthy lunch. it was so good that i made another one right after. then i felt sick from eating too much. not too healthy i guess… but my afternoon nap was awesome….. whatever works right? good night…[:?????????:][:?????????:]
