Mason Ho on a bomb yesterday! it’s hard to believe how much a body can handle. this is like committing suicide.
when ever i see an “open house,” i always stop to check it out.
want to experience how it feels to drive home after a long day in a dream life.
someday, it will happen. and i’m hoping soon. haha.
the cool thing about this house was the back yard. those rocks are diamond head. yes, diamond head.
Ryo-kun’s first wave! stoked i got it! check out his smile.
Shu-san’s first wave! stoked i got it! check out his smile. surfing is priceless!
if you watched the contest online yesterday, you would have heard these two names a lot “Brock Little and Todd Chesser.” both big wave riders that changed the style of big wave surfing back in the 90’s. both of these guys taught Kelly Slater, Shane Dorian, Ross Williams, and many more surfers how to surf big waves. two legends that everybody still looks up too. Brock passed away from cancer, Todd passed away from surfing big waves. i’m so stoked to have known both of them.
last, if you are a long boarder, watch this video over and over. this is the perfect example of how to walk the board gracefully. let Kelia Moniz show you the way.
[vimeo]https://vimeo.com/155853327[/vimeo]
