yeah!!! nice riding!!! Asayama-san day 2 of 14. we really got lucky yesterday afternoon because the waves got super good right when we went out and it was empty. i told him, “ok, we are going to take your surfing up another level. we are only catching the best sets.” from the first wave, he was super stoked!
paddled back out with the big smile, and we did it again. again and again and Asayama-san didn’t want to stop. after 2 hours and many many waves, i told him the same thing i told him on day 1, “ok, i think you caught enough waves for today. we have 12 more days to go so better pace your energy.” haha.
Asayama-san told me that he wants to stay longer in hawaii. and he is already thinking about his next trip. haha.
we had some extra time so he got out his list of “things to do” and we did things one by one. i understand how good it feels good to cross things out.
then we went shopping and had a great time. i think after 14 days straight with Asayama-san, i might cry when he leaves. he’s such a very kind gentleman.
yesterday morning out at bowls, this young japanese kid paddles out. he paddles up to me and nods his head. it’s the japanese respectful way of saying hi. i really like when kids respect their elders. it comes from great parenting. so i say hi and watch him surf. omg, this kid was ripping! his name is Raiki-kun and is from miyazaki. i’m guessing he’s about 13 or 14 years old? i watch him take of on this beautiful wave.
then he lays the perfectly timed bottom turn. speed, power, and flow.
keeping his eyes on the target coming off the bottom.
keeping his knees bent before getting ready to hit the lip.
then he smashes the lip, Mick Fanning style.
and comes around and completes the ride. it’s the first time i seen this kid surf and he really impressed me a lot. but the thing that impressed me the most was him paddling up to me and saying hi. it takes balls to paddle up to a scary guy like me. haha. Raiki-kun is also a Dove Wetsuits rider so it made me really proud to be wearing Dove too. good kid and i wish him the best professional surfing career ahead.
