i wore a black rubber wetsuit this morning and it was perfectly warm. then i wore my jersey wetsuit this afternoon and it was perfectly warm. my friend asked me why i have so many wetsuits? i told him, i have a wetsuit for every conditions. every wind and water temperature, i’m totally covered. and when i see other surfers out there wearing other brand wetsuits and are still cold, i just laugh to myself and think “i feel so sorry for you guys.” thank you Dove Wetsuits for always keeping me warm.
had a great time with Otsuka-san today. he’s only started to surf since last november. i could tell he was super energetic so we caught the bigger waves today. he learned how to turn right, turn left, and ride it forever.
and like everyone else, the smile after riding a good wave is priceless. as much as they love it, i do too.
thank you Otsuka-san for the wonderful time. and thank you Naho-san for sending him my way. keep on yoga and keep on surfing.
the sun over diamond head shot with Otsuka-san.
then went to pick up Asayama-san for day 3. omg, you wouldn’t believe how good he got. amazing progress.
found this photo of Aoi-kun on my computer. reminding me of his first pipeline experience. the kid is ripping these days.
found this photo of girls on my computer. going back to the days when i use to shoot models in bikinis. why the heck did i quit that job????? somebody slap me in the face. haha.
i like to analyze things. so when my gopro broke, i tried to find out why? i was very curious why gopro wouldn’t make the weak break point outside of the housing? for example, if the 2 mount pieces were made a little weaker than the housing itself, it would have simply broke off and the camera wouldn’t have gotten flooded with water. doesn’t that make sense for a $500 product? or did gopro do this on purpose so consumers would have to buy a whole new camera? either way, i’m pretty baffled by this poor construction.