Wetsuit: Rubber vs. Jersey

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i wore a black rubber wetsuit this morning and it was perfectly warm. then i wore my jersey wetsuit this afternoon and it was perfectly warm. my friend asked me why i have so many wetsuits? i told him, i have a wetsuit for every conditions. every wind and water temperature, i’m totally covered. and when i see other surfers out there wearing other brand wetsuits and are still cold, i just laugh to myself and think “i feel so sorry for you guys.” thank you Dove Wetsuits for always keeping me warm.
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had a great time with Otsuka-san today. he’s only started to surf since last november. i could tell he was super energetic so we caught the bigger waves today. he learned how to turn right, turn left, and ride it forever.
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and like everyone else, the smile after riding a good wave is priceless. as much as they love it, i do too.
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thank you Otsuka-san for the wonderful time. and thank you Naho-san for sending him my way. keep on yoga and keep on surfing.
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the sun over diamond head shot with Otsuka-san.
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then went to pick up Asayama-san for day 3. omg, you wouldn’t believe how good he got. amazing progress.
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found this photo of Aoi-kun on my computer. reminding me of his first pipeline experience. the kid is ripping these days.
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found this photo of girls on my computer. going back to the days when i use to shoot models in bikinis. why the heck did i quit that job????? somebody slap me in the face. haha.
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i like to analyze things. so when my gopro broke, i tried to find out why? i was very curious why gopro wouldn’t make the weak break point outside of the housing? for example, if the 2 mount pieces were made a little weaker than the housing itself, it would have simply broke off and the camera wouldn’t have gotten flooded with water. doesn’t that make sense for a $500 product? or did gopro do this on purpose so consumers would have to buy a whole new camera? either way, i’m pretty baffled by this poor construction.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide