i try to keep the blogs going and spend so much time doing it, but sometimes fall asleep on my desk thinking i pressed “publish,” but i actually don’t. then find it somewhere in the system floating around as a draft. so here is just one of the many. sorry.
another great day of surfing. epic morning session with Asayama-san, and epic afternoon session with Nishida-san and Yukari-san. spent 5 hours in the water. totally sunburnt but very satisfied! gotta go to dinner so see you guys later. just wanted to unload some photos off my busy computer desktop. enjoy!
dolphins belong in the wild like this. and after watching them and interacting with them in their territory, i realized that they are actually suffering when they are held captive in places like sea world. i could see it in their eyes. it’s just not the same.
want to thank Takahashi-san for sending me some photos. i’m a much better and relaxed person in nature. nothing bothers me. i feel safe, free, and happy. if you were lock me up in an office, i would go crazy. that’s why i can relate to the dolphins.
even whales, they belong in the ocean, not in a swimming pool.
they are free to roam where ever they want. eat, sleep, and play when ever they feel like it.
compared to the whales held captive at sea world. living each day in a swimming pool? to me, that’s cruel. the movie Blackfish that came out a few years ago made a huge impact in the world. sea world just announced that they will be discontinuing breeding of the whales. that’s a victory for the whales!
back to Takahashi-san. he couldn’t have come at a better time. the weather and waves were perfect every single day. and luckily i had a few days off so it worked out perfectly. and ever since he left, my secret spot shut down the next day. windy, small, and ugly. it hasn’t been good ever since.
surfing with nobody around, taking any wave you want, and enjoying a private session is a surfers dream. 5 solid days of dream sessions.
ok, got the first ever SUP wave this little girl caught on film. what an amazing accomplishment for a surfer girl.
i was watching a big set coming and laughing. i didn’t say anything because i wanted to see what she would do. panic? jump? she jumped. haha.
