luckily i checked the forecast last night and moved up our surfing an hour this morning. i knew a storm was approaching and before it, the waves would be super good. and yes, it was super good! glassy and perfect! Asayama-san on wave 100? gosh, it really must be around there. or even more than that.
then just as i thought, the storm came through at 9:30am. a beautiful glassy morning turned into a dark, rainy, ugly, and onshore day. by then, we were already in the car driving to lunch.
another day of perfect timing!
we wanted healthy so i knew the perfect healthy place.
always a great conversation. gosh, we’ve been eating really really good!
Asayama-san is living like a local. we take turns watching the truck so nobody steals the surfboards. once Asayama-san is finished, it’s my turn.
then since the waves got super junk, we headed out to sea on the SUP’s.
it was Asayama-san’s first time on the SUP. i taught him from the very beginning and 10 minutes later, he was paddling it perfectly.
so we headed out to the sea for a super fun time! brought the mask so we can pretend we are Urashima Taro. Asayama-san told me on the way in “i’m so happy. so many of my dreams came true!” wow, that makes me very very happy. long day again. better go to sleep because another long day tomorrow. time is flying by so fast i don’t even know what day it is anymore????
