Ishinomaki Storm Surfers!

217

Screen Shot 2016-03-30 at 9.10.35 AM
today was victory at sea! the winds and weather was super junky but that didn’t stop Abe-san from catching paddling out. i told him “today is only for hard core surfers!” and there were only 2 other hard core surfers out. everybody else either stayed home, or went to work. it’s days like today where the ocean will create good watermen.
Screen Shot 2016-03-30 at 9.08.03 AM
when we pulled up to the beach, i told the boys, “ok, get ready for some non-stop paddling today!”
Screen Shot 2016-03-30 at 9.10.53 AM
the waves were pretty big and really bumpy, making it very hard to surf. but Abe-san caught some big sets and rode it out perfectly.
Screen Shot 2016-03-30 at 9.08.53 AM
Yuta-kun had a few himself. perfect style!
Screen Shot 2016-03-30 at 9.09.40 AM
today was very hard to surf so i give anyone credit for even trying. Yuta-kun succeeded.
Screen Shot 2016-03-30 at 9.11.13 AM
after a couple of hours, we finally made our way in. Abe-san only surfs in hawaii so i was amazed on his energy level. he must have went over a hundred waves this morning just to get out.
Screen Shot 2016-03-30 at 9.11.23 AM
awesome father and son surfing relationship.
IMG_7974
then we went for some good vietnam food. oh, i love these! and yes, i’m allergic to shrimp but so what? i ate it anyway. haha.
IMG_7976
large pho with rare steak and tripe. my favorite selection.
IMG_7975
had an awesome talk during lunch. Abe-san lost many things from the tsunami, including the first floor of his house. talking about it 5 years later still brings chills to my bones. also talked about how Yuta-kun entered a contest in junior high school. he became the champion of “english pronunciation” of the whole Ishinomaki. i was wondering why his english was excellent! thank you boys for the victory at sea storm surfing! you guys did great!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide