imagine surfing a super good spot with perfect waves. everybody taking turns and cheering each other on. then paddling back out and talking story. then you look around and it’s just us out? perfect timing? or perfect time? i think both as i watch Chizu-san and Chifumi-san waiting for another wave to ride.
i use to call Chifumi-san “hard core” because she surfs every single day. now, i’ll call her “roxy girl” because she surfs just like Kelia Moniz. beauty on beauty.
yesterday, i watched her walk the board flawlessly all morning long.
and Chizu-san surfed super good too. the waves were so good that she stayed out for 4 hours.
i say in a month, Chifumi-san will be hanging ten very easily. guarantee!
Asayama-san was in hawaii so long that he became a local, and also became a friend to others. 26 years ago when i first went to japan, i had a dream. and the dream was exactly what came true yesterday. if it wasn’t for that trip and dream back in 1990, i’d be living in a very narrow and shallow world. and that could suck!
i pulled up the beach yesterday and saw Aoi-kun. i went up to him and said “hey, you’re surfing the Surf Into Summer contest at bowls in may. he looked at me “what???” if i didn’t think this kid was ready to surf the biggest amateur contest in the world with the best surfers in hawaii, i wouldn’t enter him. but i know this kid can turn some heads. so hey Aoi-kun, i’ll be cheering you on! practice everyday for the contest of your life! i know you can do it!
