Minor Surfboard Adjustments

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gosh, this trip seems like years ago. it seems so long ago that i want to go back already. i met Gil on the beach, walked up to him, and we just connected. he’s a surf instructor, so am i. one thing surf instructors have in common is to make people happy. it’s our job, and it’s the most awesome feeling to see the results in a simple smile. Gil ended up taking care of us on this trip, took us to surf secret spots, took us to eat, and took us to sightsee. every trip i take, i learn something. on this trip, i learned how to give more from the heart. thanks to this wonderful surf filipino surf instructor named Gil.
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Gil even let me use his personal board. it wasn’t in the best condition, but it was the closest to a high performance board we could find. of course i took care of it as it was my own. i know how precious surfboards are to surfers in these remote areas. i wish i took one of my boards so i could have gave it to him when i left. maybe next time.
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check out the fin system. different size fins but better than nothing right? right! i can’t believe i was pulling into backside thick barrels over shallow reef with these fins. haha.
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this is when Carter and i just jumped into the ocean. it was our first dip! the night before, i went to get a full body oil massage. and our first hotel, the shower didn’t work so i couldn’t wash off the oil. so paddling out with oil all over my body, i felt like a slimy fish.
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then after a couple of waves slipping off, i managed to get a good one.
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looking back at this trip, i realized how Carter must have been tripping out on me, especially when i was eating all the weird street food. haha.
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want to thank Yumi-chan’s mother for the konbu from osaka! i’m heating up the rice right now!
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thank you again Yumi-chan’s mother! look at your amazing daughter enjoying the underwater world!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide