Alive Again!

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had an awesome trip with Mori-san, Junko-san, Matsu, Atsuko-san, and Kimura-san at the best surf resort in the whole wide world.
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looking back at my layover in japan, i swear i thought i was going to faint a couple of times. food poisoning is the worst thing for your body. i could feel things eating me up from inside. and there was nothing i could do about it.
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it’s weird how things always seem to work out. i flew economy on every flight previous to this one. so the first 5 airplanes, i was in economy and it was fine. then when i needed it the most from japan to hawaii, i got upgraded to business. i really don’t know if i could have made it in economy in the condition i was in. as soon as i got on the plane, i ordered hot water. i never ever drink hot water but that was the only thing that was going into my body.
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and thank goodness for the warm blanket. without this, i would have froze to death.
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right when i got home, i drank my kombucha. then i almost threw it up. i lie in bed trying to sleep the pain off. still curled up into a ball, i felt like i still being eating from the inside out. so i get up, drive to the beach, and jump into the ocean. i knew that would be the best medicine.
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it’s amazing how the ocean can cure! i didn’t have my board with me because my brain wasn’t functioning properly. so i swim instead. and once i jumped in, i felt alive again.
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when i came out of the water, i seen the coolest monk seal hidden in the rocks. we talked a little and i left him alone.
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ended up staying to watch the sunset. it was so beautiful!
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then i came home and hung out with Matues. the cutest kid in the world!
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i told him to smile and this was it. haha. anyway, glad to be home like always. going to the beach today and hopefully won’t forget my surfboard again. in 2 days, i should be feeling 100% again. can’t wait.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide