i went to pick up Mutsumi-san this morning. she and her husband have a new child so they had to take turns surfing today. so i ask Mutsumi-san, “how did you decide who goes in the morning and who goes in the afternoon?” she told me “my husband said the waves are better in the morning so you go.” omg! what a gentlemen! i was so happy to hear that and now i respect her husband much more. that’s so kind. we get to the beach and i Mutsumi-san told me she wants to surf knee/waist high waves. i said “ok.” but i knew the waves were much bigger than that.
we started out with the knee high waves, then worked our way to the outside where the big ones were. by the 3rd wave, she was riding head high waves! i told her “just don’t look back.” haha. these are the biggest waves of her life! i could tell that she had the ability, but was lacking confidence in the beginning. you should have seen her face after she caught this wave! pure stoke. haha.
and Mutsumi-san told me she couldn’t turn properly before so after a few minor adjustments on the beach, she was turning and turning all morning long. all it took was her front foot to be aligned in the middle of the board.
perfect surfing Mutsumi-san! i’m so happy that you are charging big waves now. and i think knee/high waves will bore you from now on. haha.
there was this cute turtle hanging out all morning and afternoon long.
lunch at ono seafood. poke bowl time!
then went to pick up Yuuki-san. i asked him what he wanted to improve on and he told me he wanted to do a cutback. so after a few minor adjustments on the beach, we paddled out and there was a newborn surfer! the waves were absolutely perfect! nobody around us and just so beautiful.
Yuuki-san couldn’t complete a cutback until today. after doing about 15 perfect round house cutbacks, he’s got it perfected.
and once you can do a proper cutback, you can do much more of everything.
great surfing Yuuki-san! just remember what we talked about on the beach and go back to japan and do cutbacks on every wave.
i was in the water for 6 hours again today. i hardly catch waves but when a good one comes and nobody is around, i have to go. just don’t want to waste it.
and yes, i feeling like i’m flying sometimes.
this is Mr. and Mrs. Funaki-san 4 years ago. i remember this wonderful couple from Akita because we had a great time back then.
this is Mr. and Mrs. Funaki-san today. want to welcome their cute baby Ena-chan into this wonderful world. 4 years has passed and so much went on. i’m just so happy for this wonderful family that loves to surf. can’t wait to tandem with Ena-chan!
