ok, i logged in 7 hours of surfing today. super hot day in the sun but lots of nice waves ridden.
super stoked to surf with Tadokoro-san this morning! Tadokoro-san’s been surfing for 25 years but hasn’t for the past 2 years because of a bad back. when i picked him up, he was worried about his back hurting again. but once he got on the surfboard, the back was totally fine! this was his first wave and i was surprised how good he was!
it’s also Tadokoro-san’s first time in hawaii. he didn’t understand why people come here to surf but now he knows. people come here for the warm weather, smiling faces, and long perfect rides!
Tadokoro-san caught over 30 waves today, which made up for his 2 years of being out of the water. and his back felt better than ever. it’s amazing how surfing can make you feel so good!
seen Chifumi-san out too. super long nice waves!
then seen my friend Russell out too. a big SUP boy that surfs super good.
i was trying to walk to the nose but couldn’t get there today.
so i just did some bottom turns and hit the lips. you can go so fast on a long board and when you set the rail for a bottom turn, it feels like coming off the bottom on a 10′ backdoor wave. same feeling.
i think Tadokoro-san’s back is normal now. and i’m sure he will surf when he gets back to hiratsuka. please tell all the hiratsuka boys i said aloha. see you guys this typhoon season at the river mouths!
mahalos! have a safe flight back home tomorrow!
shocking news! i stopped by “Your Kitchen” on the way home to grab a locomoco. guess what??? they don’t have locomoco’s anymore! omg, they stopped making it. so i ordered the pork belly bowl which is the best on the island, and maybe the whole world.
then went for a long afternoon surf with Mr. and Mrs. Notoya-san. waves got bigger and we scored! south swell with perfect conditions tomorrow for sure! it’s already 7:50pm. better go to sleep. good night.
