surfed my secret spot today. good waves and nobody. winds backing down as a solid overhead swell is on the way for the weekend. can’t wait to get barreled again!
watched my nephews compete in japan today. both lost so i was super bummed out all day long. surfing contests in japan is very challenging for hawaiians because there is absolutely no place to practice in hawaii for that. i makes me remember when i first competed there. i was totally lost at sea. anyway, hope the rest of the hawaiians and japanese competitors do good!
so stoked to see Kaori-chan and Asaka-san doing an awesome job commentating on the web. both of these cool surfers i know very well throughout all the years. great to see them representing japan. awesome!
did you hear about this gay couple that sued hawaii for discrimination? a police arrested them for kissing in foodland. anyway, they won $80,000. not bad for a kiss.
i use to always dream about going to aculpuco, mexico. a mexican tourist destination that is getting bad publicity from all the gang/drug related killings recently. now the police is in full force so you better be good.
many killings each day. right in the daylight. maybe i’ll put off my plans to visit there in the near future.
check out my friends cool pineapple plant! so cool!
