omg, the south swell is here in full swing! solid 5′ and super nice barrels if you know where to find them. surfed this morning at maxing out rock piles. when i picked up Yoshida-san from his hotel this morning, i asked him “what’s the biggest waves you surfed? he said “maybe chest high?” i said “well, today is your lucky day. you will ride the biggest wave of your life.” then we pull up to the beach and the waves where huge. super hard to get out but if there is a will, there is a way. right? i could tell Yoshida-san was super nervous, but my speciality is to bring out the best of you. so i told him, “hey, i’ll be right on your side so don’t worry, you won’t die. he looked at me as if i was crazy.
we somehow made it past the double overhead closeouts. then i see a big one coming and i say “turn around and GO!” he took off and rode the wave of his life!
then he rode it perfectly. caught another big one, and another big one. it was the super session of his life. i asked him “how was it?” he replied “i thought i was going to die! but it was amazing.” haha.
this was Yoshida-san’s expression after that perfect ride. surprised and happy look? haha.
then he caught another good one. Yoshida-san’s been surfing for 5 years, but today his new surfing life will start again. bigger and better.
i really wish i could take a photo of people when they are freaking out scared. haha. it’s the totally opposite of this. so seeing fear turn into happiness makes me feel so good.
awesome job Yoshida-san!
then i asked Yoshida-san if he wanted to eat pho for lunch. he said “i don’t like pho. i tried it once in japan and i didn’t like it.” i told him “you haven’t tried real pho in hawaii before.” so we went and he loved it. i must have taken a thousand people to eat pho, and every single person loved it.
been going to another place recently. no tourists so it’s as local as it gets. you won’t find this place in a guide book.
then ended it with a cool shave ice. the perfect ending!
after i dropped Yoshida-san off, i looked at the sky and Mr. Sun was telling me “get your ass back in the ocean. you know where to go! now go and get barreled!” so i listened like a good boy.
and i pull up to my secret spot and only 3 guys catching the sets. taking turns and loving life. the waves weren’t the best, maybe because i am spoiled? i was telling one of my friends, “ah, waves aren’t that good, i’m going somewhere else.” five minutes later…
i see the ocean moving, i paddle way to the outside and with one eye watching the huge set coming, and with the other eye watching the wave almost break over Mayuki. i watch Mayuki and she survived the swell, then i focus on the swell. turn around, take off, bottom turn, and pull into the biggest blue room. i’m so deep, i’m on the foam ball thinking “OMG.” i pump my board while in the barrel, thinking “wow!” then the foam ball pushes my board and me out. i see my friend Scotty looking at me with big eyes. i look at him back with bigger eyes. he said “omg, that was crazy!” i tell him “that was the craziest thickest barrel i’ve ever gotten out here on the south shore. and i’ve been doing this for over 30 years!!” it was freaking amazing! stayed out for 3 hours and was just loving life to the fullest. good night.
