i get asked over and over “where is your favorite surf spot in the world?” my answer is always, indonesia, samoa, south africa, philippines, and most of all, japan. i’ve probably surfed the best waves in my life all around japan. so many secret spots that i was taken too all these years, all secrets that i will keep secrets forever. BUT, for consistency, weather, water, and aloha, no place in the world tops hawaii. and the more time i spend here, the more i realize it.
i use to leave hawaii each and every summer because i thought the waves were junky on the south shore. but recently, our summers have been incredible. so incredible that i don’t want to go anywhere! look at this beautiful wave yesterday morning. i was about to duck dive this wave and thought to myself “wow, this is amazing!”
and my afternoon session even more amazing. i pay thousands of dollars and travel half way around the world to surf waves like this. what was i thinking? yesterday was another mentawai day right here in ala moana.
and to see my friends in the lineup and surf with them is awesome. Matty Liu, Uncle Scotty, and Nick Mita sharing barrels after barrels. lots of aloha in these incredible surfers.
after taking these photos yesterday, i thought about upgrading my professional camera gear. made me want to get back in the water and take fisheye shots again. i use to do this everyday and always loved the results. now i’ll just have to save $10,000 for the equipment and maybe start all over again.
i’m a fish. without the ocean, i would dry up physically and mentally. that’s scary.
trying some new angles. just love how the water flows off the swallow tail. i tell everybody that the back foot is your gas pedal. push on it hard and your board will go into turbo mode. and stop pushing off your front foot because that is your brake.
and when you push the gas, you will throw some serious spray. try it and i’m sure you will like it!
ok, get ready for another week of waves and waves. and also more photos and photos. i’m so excited to surf and shoot again. and so excited to do some exploring this week!
